Winters in
Slovenia can be pretty different. There can be many combinations of cold or
warm and snowy or dry winters. For example, winter 2017/2018 had plenty of snow
from November to March with constant snowfall. On the other hand, next winter
2018/2019 was pretty poor with snow at the beginning and even further on there
was much less snow than a year before, but still enough in the mountains. In the
middle of December when snow cover was already pretty deep a year before, this
season was given just a very thin cover of powdery snow. There were warm and
cold periods in mostly dry weather. The most beautiful time was just in the
middle of the month, when there was a little snowfall that covered the land in
just from a few to 10 cm of snow. That snowfall was followed with the proper
winter cold. There was also some rime ice in the mountains, because they were
covered with fog right after the snowfall. This was followed by mostly clear and
sunny weather and a very special fairytale appeared, much different than that
with a lot of snow.
One of the
mountains that is most beautiful in that weather is Ratitovec. That is a small
mountain ridge that rises at the southwestern edge of Jelovica and is also the
highest point of that mountain plateau. The ridge has more peaks around 1650
meters of height that differ much from each other. At the top of the mountain
there is also a mountain hut that is opened at weekends in winter as well.
Because this ridge is a bit isolated from other higher mountains in Slovenian
Alps and at the edge of the Alps, there are some of the most beautiful views in
Slovenian Alps. We can see most of Julian Alps, central Karawanks and
Kamnik-Savinja Alps. To the south we can observe Slovenian western hills and
lower mountains. Southern slopes of Ratitovec are very steep. Because Ratitovec
is, like most of Jelovica, made of limestone, southern slopes are full of
rocks. That is a very interesting phenomenon beacause Southern Alps northern
slopes are usually steeper but on Ratitovec the terrain only lowers a bit to
the north and continues into mountain plateau. Rocky southern slopes are mostly
in the middle of the ridge, where there are peaks Gladki vrh and Altemaver.
Between them is the mountain hut. From Altemaver the ridge continues to western
peak Kremant. Those three peaks are united, a bit separated from them is
Kosmati vrh which is also the lowest. Between Gladki vrh and Kosmati vrh there
is a beautiful small valley. The ridge is very exposed to wind on the top.
Ratitovec is one of most windy mountains in Slovenia. The wind is often pretty
strong, sometimes severe. Even when it is gentler it is constant. That is why
the top of the ridge is open and mostly treeless. Around the peaks there is
mosaic of dwarf pine and dwarf trees. Ratitovec is accessible from Železniki.
On its slopes there is one of higher located villages in Slovenia, Prtovč,
located just above 1000 meters. We can reach it by rode from Železniki and it
is also the most common starting-point for Ratitovec. There are two paths
leading to the top. One of them goes across southern rocky slopes, the other
through the valley between Kosmati vrh and Gladki vrh.
When
northern winds dominate above Alps and cold air flow comes from the north, it
often snows in northern Alps. At that time it is mostly sunny in Southern Alps,
because the air mass from the north dries across the Alps and clouds fall apart.
Even though the weather is mostly sunny, clouds still form periodically,
especially around higher mountains because of wind friction. In lowlands the
weather is still mostly clear. Because Ratitovec is isolated from other high
mountains, the weather above it is still mostly clear even though other
mountains are covered in clouds. But in strong and constant northern wind it is
also pretty cold.
All those
factors resulted in a true fairytale on Ratitovec in the middle of December.
After some light snow the land was covered into thin whiteness. The upper part
of the mountains was also covered in fog, so the trees also got covered with
rime ice. On windy slopes, the snow was blown away from the canopies, but the
rime ice remained. All that weather was followed by mostly clear and sunny
weather creating a magic combination of blue and white.
Now, let us
head into this mountain fairytale. Because surrounding mountains were covered
in clouds that day, I add some photos from a few days later. Then it was a bit
warmer and the whiteness of rime ice disappeared. But it was completely clear
and the view on the surrounding Alps was perfect. However the setting twisted
that day and low cloudiness started to form above lowlands. Let us chose the
path across southern slopes, because days with little snow cover are to be made
use of since the scenery there is really beautiful. Later on when there is more
snow, there are many avalanches on those slopes, so they are not save anymore.
At that time we chose the eastern path to across the valley between Gladki vrh
and Kosmati vrh. The path separate already in Prtovč village.
When we
arrive in Prtovč, let us make a few steps acroos the meadows in front of the
village. We can see the entire mountain in front of us. We will head to the
left ridge with Gladki vrh, Altemaver, Kremant and the alpine hut. To the right
there is separated Kosmati vrh. The signs of strong wind are clearly visible on
the thin snow cover. There was still windy that morning even in the village,
though on the ridge, the winds are stronger and more constant. The sky above us
is clear blue with only a small cloud form, time to time. The mountain above is
covered in complete whiteness. A truly beautiful day awaits us.
First let
us head on trail through mixed forest across the slopes to the west of the
village. We follow the overhead power line crossing the mountain pass on the
southern slopes of Ratitovec. We lift
for 250 meters when we reach it. By the pass there is a smaller peak, Grebel
vrh, right on the south below the ridge we are headed on. On the pass we come
right bellow the southern rocky slopes. However, we first need to cross the
upper forest zone. First we cross spruce, then beech forest. At the end the
forest thins, the trees scatter and we reach grassy southern slopes below the
rocks.
After we
cross the spruce forest we cross a smaller clearing and above trees we already
can side the rocks below the top of the ridge. The forest is turning mixed,
beeches start to dominate spruces and soon we will reach mostly beech forest.
The path across a little of fresh powder snow is already trodden, but not yet
completely smooth. Snow has been blown away from many canopies except smaller
spruces and we have yet to reach the rime ice zone.
After that
we reach the beech forest and the rime ice zone. We reach a true fairytale in
beech forest with young spruces below. Above us there is clear blue sky and the
trees are covered in whiteness of rime ice and light snow. The light snow has
completely covered the forest in white with a little help by the wind. The sun
and shade play accompany us. There is more light than in the summer, when trees
gain leaves, but due to some light snow and rime ice in the canopies, the shade
still dominates the sun. there will be more light, when snow and rime will
melt.
A pretty
much short part of the trail through the beech forest can give us many
different beautiful spots of the white forest. The cast of light can be pretty
different depending on to which direction we look (towards the sun, opposite to
the sun, from an angle to the sun). At the time we are leaving the beech
forest, white spruces come in front mixed with a few young beeches (third
photo).
When
arriving on a sunny slope beneath the rocks we can venture into a fairytale
among white spruce covered with rime ice. They merge into beautiful scenery
combined with blue clear winter sky. Even though the snow cover is very thin id
does not lessen the beauty of the scenery. The slope is sunny, spruces produce
only a few shades.
Wonderful
views beneath the rocks. It is a very steep grassy terrain covered in fresh
thin light snow. The slope is enriched with some smaller white spruces covered
with rime ice. They also produce a few smaller shades. We are located around
1500 meters above sea level and the top of the rocks is additional 100 to 150
meters higher. The sky is clear and blue there without any clouds.
We make a
turn across the rocky slope. Those slopes are very risky for avalanches when
there is more snow, especially after heavier snowfall. After we cross the
rocks, the slope becomes gentler. The last two spruces say hello to us with a
fantastic panorama next to the steep slope. In the background there is Lower
Bohinj Ridge to the right with some clouds and Porezen to the left. After that
spot we reach the gentle slopes on the top of the mountain.
On the top
of the mountain we reach those fantastic plains and gentle slopes. This is the
southeastern extension of the ridge
beneath alpine hut and Gladki vrh. It is located opposite of Kosmati vrh and
beneath it is a beautiful valley. It is clearly visible that there were some
strong winds there, because the snow cover is very rough on the surface due to
wind. The light snow has been blown away and thin ice layer was created on the
ground due to wind friction. The photo was made a few days later, when rime ice
melted. We cannot see that on this spot due to no trees around.
An alpine
hut on a windy and sunny mountain. A lone cloud can occur in the background to
the north. There is plenty of benches in front of the hut. The second photo was
shot a few days later in warmer, but still cool weather. It was still a few
degrees below freezing. Then it was completely clear, however low cloudiness
started to form above lowlands. The snow remained roughed even though the wind
stopped.
The rounded
peak of Gladki vrh right next to the hut. A part of the slope has no rough snow
cover, supposedly it is in wind shelter from north winds on the southern side
of the peak.
A fantastic
peak of Altemaver with some dwarf spruces on its eastern gentle slope.
Altemaver actually consists of more peaks connected with each other. What we
see on those photos is not the main peak, but the first peak from the east, the
main peak is behind it. Below Altemaver we can see a small pond, a watering
place for cattle in the summer. It is frozen in the winter. We can also see a
cloud layer round high mountains in the background .
A beautiful
view from Gladki vrh on surrounding area covered in rime ice. To the north
there are spacious views on Jelovica, beneath Ratitovec there is the western
half of the plateau. All trees, Spruces, firs (very distinctive of Jelovica) and
beeches, are covered with rime ice. It was sunny and mostly clear above
Ratitovec, but the surrounding mountains were due to strong north wind still
covered in clouds. Some lone clouds appeared also above Jelovica at the
beginning, but never reached or felt apart before Ratitovec. On the first photo
there is the highest peak of Jelovica excluding Ratitovec, Javorov vrh and
beneath it Pečana alpine meadow. On the second photo we can see Kosmati vrh in
front of us. It is also bleak at the top, but scarce forest reaches very close
to it.
The view
from Gladki vrh a few days later in clear weather. Now we can clearly see mountains in the background: Karavanks and
Kamnik-Savinja Alps. Jelovica and Ratitovec
were not covered in white with rime ice. On the first photo to the left
we can see a small bunker just below the top. There are more of those world war
remains on Ratitovec. I will not tell the other locations. Visit Ratitovec and
look for them!
The sunny
gentle slopes and plains beneath Gladki vrh with alpine hut in the middle. The
hills to the south have less clouds above than the surrounding mountain area.
The pond on
a col between Gladki vrh and Altemaver. It is frozen in the cold weather. On
the ice there are many snow heaps, probably created due to wind gathering snow
around certain points. A fantastic scene was created: glittering frozen pond
with snow heaps creating small shades on it in sunny weather. The first photo
is from the rime ice day, the second from few days later.
While ascending
to Altemaver we can spot the fantasy of
white dwarf spruces covered with snow and rime ice and blue clear sky above
them. One unconsciously just ventures among them.
Among those
beauties, a true fantasy of winter we did not expect on bleak peak of
Ratitovec. Some smaller rock on the ground make the scene even more special.
Even dry grass from last summer cover with rime ice peers over the thin snow
cover, that is not so rough in wind shelter among trees. Due to rough terrain
itself you need to be careful not to twist your ankle. All the holes are hidden
since they are full of snow. The scene really entrances us. Since we are in the
mountains we still need to keep an eye on the step no to injure ourselves.
If we turn
towards the sun, the angle of light changes, the scene becomes different, but
still preserving its magic. The blue sky becomes lighter close to sunlight and
we look on the shady side of the spruces. Many shades also express themselves
from this direction.
Later on we
rise above this spruce paradise and the view to Gladki vrh and alpine hut
beneath the top awaits us. Above us is completely clear, but in the background
there is also some haze beside clouds.
From the
eastern peak of Altemaver the view changes again. On the first photo there is
Javorov vrh from a different angle. The cloud above Jelovica is falling apart,
but the surrounding m mountains did not yet got rid of them. On second photo
there are shady northern gentle slopes of Ratitovec. Among the shades there are sunny layers, so
there is a beautiful scene of everchanging light on the shady slopes. Those
northern slopes are a mosaic of dwarf pine and other dwarf trees. On the left
we can see the main peak of Altemaver and to the right next to it Kremant.
Later we
are reaching the main peak of Altemaver. It also has a small group of dwarf
spruces on eastern slope, but also very distinctive southern rock walls.
A beautiful
view from main peak to eastern peak of Altemaver when we look across the dwarf
spruces beneath the top. When spruces were covered with rime ice, the scenery
was purely white and there was some haze in the background though the sky was
clear blue. A few days later the rime ice melted and some green color of
spruces appeared again. There was no haze in the background, but we can see low
cloudiness created beneath the mountains.
From Altemaver
there is also a wonderful view across the plateau beneath the peak. The clouds
above Jelovica vanished and now the hole plateau is sunny. Clouds above western
Karavanks also started to fall apart. The most beautiful is the mosaic of dwarf
pines and dwarf trees just beneath us when covered in whiteness of rime ice.
The view on
rounded and elongated Kremant from Altemaver in two different scenes. The first
photo show In whiteness of rime ice covered kremant, on second one there is
more green coloration of trees due to rime ice being melted away. Before we
reach kremant there is one more peak in between, however from Altemaver they
look like united mass even though there is a 20 meters lower col in between. On
the first picture Julian Alps behind are covered in clouds, on the second photo
they are clearly visible with Triglav dominating the scene in the middle.
For the end
let us head to Kremant. First we drop to first col and reach the peak between
Altemaver and Kremant. The scenes of white dwarf spruces covered with rime ice
continue. There was also a bit wind shelter so snow cover is not so rough. Especially
fantastic is the first photo, where we can look across sunny slopes with white
spruces towards Kremant. The top of the slopes is bleak though.
When we reach
the first peak in between we can see Altemaver completely differently (on the
first photo). We can see elongated ridge from the northwest shady direction. it
is clearly visible how it consists of many peaks, the main is the highest in
the middle. The shady slopes provide beautiful contrasts of light among the
sunny surroundings. Before us an entire Kremant opens up, the final step of the
day. What is left is gentle and open ridge with more rough snow surface again. A
small col and short final ascend to Kremant is left. The peak of Kremant is at
the beginning, then the ridge slowly descends towards the west till its end, when
Ratitovec ridge as a whole ends. Then the terrain drops a bit and merges with
Jelovica forests. Behind Kremant there are Julian Alps still in clouds.
On the top
of Kremant (the first photo) there are some dwarf pines and dwarf spruces
covered in whiteness. Then it is followed by bleak ridge. When we reach the far
end of Kremant and Ratitovec, we can enjoy in view on southern Kremant slopes
from the other side a few meter beneath the top of the ridge. In the background
is the rest of Ratitovec ridge. Spruces from the west direction have a bit different
coloration. They are not fully covered with rime ice, some of it has already
melted away. Though they have a gentle white addition to the green colors. This was the final spot of my first day. There
I head a break on warmer sunny southern slopes in wind shelter. Then I headed
back across the ridge to Prtovč.
A few days
later I made a few steps down the descent from kremant towards forests of Jelovica
edge and made a turning point where there are beautiful views to the west and
southwest. First we reach dwarf spruces.
Later they grow taller and join into forest together with beeches and firs. The
scenery lost much of its whiteness as rime ice melted and there is just a very
thin layer of light snow cover in the mountains, but it still feels like winter.
On the first photo is the view towards Lower Bohinj ridge in the middle of it. In
front of them is another, but shorter and a bit lower ridge at southern edge of
Jelovica, Kačji rob. It is like an elongation of Ratitovec. It is mostly
covered in forest (rather scarce on the top of the ridge), but there are also
some open spaces there. Lengthening the hike to this beautiful spot awaits me
in the future. On the second photo there is Porezen to the left from bohinj
ridge. The low cloudiness did not reach valleys in the west, there was just
some haze beneath.
Now let us
head back across Ratitovec ridge after we experienced all those fantastic views
and scenes. We can jet again enjoy in crossing Altemaver, all the views along.
When we reach alpine hut, we should also go for a view to Gladki vrh again before saying goodbye to
Ratitovec. After that let us descend across the southern rocky slopes back to
the forest and to Prtovč being very satisfied with the day. You can also return
on the eastern path, but I saved it for later when there will be more snow and
the risk for avalanches on the southern slopes.
I am very thankful
to this magnificent mountain for a fantastic fairytale of whiteness and
beautiful views!
Till next time, Aljaž
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