The land of snow fairy is not located only on Kriška gora. The fairy has
its land also in Julian Alps. One of its most beautiful places is located above
Pokljuka. There a fantastic winter fairytale appears after snowfall around tree
line. There first there is a spruce forest, then unique larch forest with lone
spuces follows and on the top the dwarf pines dominate enriched with some lone
dwarf trees. All of it is embraced into undulating white land. At the north
there is a mountain ridge above Pokljuka with peaks around 2000 meters high. On
its slopes in the middle an alpine meadow Lipanca is located. There is also an
alpine hut one the meadow. Above Lipanca are more popular peaks like Mrežce,
Lipanski vrh, Brda and Debela peč. If Brda and Debela peč are the only ones
reaching above 2000 meters and from Brda, a perfect dome, is the most perfect
view, Mrežce are special on a different way. There the winter fairytale among
trees is the most magic. The southern ridge of Mrežce is enriched with many
larches and spruces, standing tall above the whiteness in the winter, while
dwarf pines are covered by deep snow. At lower line of the slope grows a scarce
larch forest. Another special fact about Mrežce is that the larch forest
extends towards the top of the ridge and grows scarcer and scarcer. Around the
top of Mrežce there are only a few dwarf trees left. Generally it is a land of
larches with some spruces among them with thousands of different scenes. The
Lipanca meadow is the border between spruce and larch forest. When we start to
climb on Mrežce from Lipanca, first we go through denser larch forest which is
becoming scarcer as we ascend. Higher on we reach a mosaic of open white spaces
and smaller tree formations. Around the top of Mrežce there is an open space
with lone dwarf spruces and larches. On the upper part of the ridge there is a
narrow line of meadows among dwarf pines. Since in the winter everything except
trees is covered with snow, we can see that in the summer.
Above Lipanca two mountain peaks dominate forming an amphitheatre above
the meadow. The two peaks are Lipanski vrh and Mrežce. They are located only a
few meters from each other and are of similar height, Lipanski vrh standing
only a few meters taller. However inbetween a 20 meters deep exposed notch cuts
the apart. In the winter it is uncrossable so both peaks are accessible from
their own opposite direction. In the summer it there is only a short protected
climbing section only a few meters long among the rocks and dwarf pines. It is
nothing special, not even much exposed. It becomes way more exposed in the
winter since the terrain gets covered into smooth snow cover and turns into a
mountaineering section requiring a full equipment and experience. Often it is
also full of snowdrifts and at no most stable conditions can be too dangerous
even for alpinists since one cannot foresee when unhardened drifts will cut
down into the depths of the valley below across the rocky wall. Mrežce are much
more visited in the winter then Lipanski vrh since being closer to the alpine
hut and much safer for avalanches than the top section of path on Lipanski vrh.
After heavy snowfall when risk of avalanches is very high gentle slopes of
mountains above Pokljuka are mostly safe. However short steeper sections or
small rocky walls are still common across the slopes at the tree line and there
avalanches can trigger. We avoid those spots best on Mrežce so they are the
first peak around to be visited after periods of snowfall. Two routes guide
there from Lipanca and merge into one on the ridge. Usually in winter we choose
the steeper right route since the left one crosses southern steep slopes that
can be a bit risky for avalanches.
In winter 2019 when I visited Mrežce true snow conditions occurred
pretty late. A year before for example I went from Lipanca to Debela peč after
snowfall on the beginning of December and there was already more than a meter
of snow there and half a meter on Pokljuka. So true winter conditions lasted
from November to April with more than 3 meters later in winter. The next winter
November and December were very poor of snow, sunny slopes were often snowless.
The true winter did not occur before mid January and it reached its peak in
February, when I visited Mrežce. This winter delivered thinner snow cover, but
a meter to meter and a half is enough to create a true winter fairytale in the
mountains. The days before I visited Mrežce were snowy. However constant snow
occurred only above Lipanca, lower down there was longer rain period inbetween.
So while the mountains above Pokljuka were embraced into pure whiteness and powder
snow, on Pokljuka there was wet and crusty due to some rain inbetween two snowy
periods. So this time I did not visit
the Julian land of snow fairy in the days of pure winter, but purest days of
winter in higher mountain zone awaited us during the days of contrast. Down on
plateau trees lost snow quickly, but up on the mountains stayed embraced in
whiteness.
Now let us head into this magical land of winter. The usual starting
point is Zajavornik alpine meadow. However the road there is not asphaltic and
in care of foresters. It is not always plowed after heavy snowfall or when
there is too much snow. This time it was too rough due to hard snow and ice to
drive across by common car. In those conditions it is better to go to Šport
hotel, a hotel at the edge of the Goreljek village on Pokljuka and by the main
road across the plateau. From there we reach Zajavornik meadow in 20 to 30
minutes by another forest road on feet. Since it is high winter and a lot of
snow, let us use snowshoes to help us on our way through deep snow. In high
winter most of visitors are skiers or have snowshoes so the route on Mrežce may
not be trodden enough for common hiking. This time the snowshoes were not needed before
Zajavornik meadow since the foresters plowed the road and in froze during
night. I put them on while reaching Zajavornik. When the view across the land
opens there we get a proof of the contrast land between higher mountains and
the plateau.
The view across Zajavornik meadow. A beautiful sunny and mostly clear
day awaits us. The snowfields on the meadow are crusty and the snow cover is
porous due to a thaw in between snowfall. The trees on the plateau are green
because they lost snow a day before due to positive temperatures after
snowfall. The mountains above are still covered in whiteness as temperatures
stayed below freezing. We are heading into true paradise. On the first photo
the first peak from the left is Mrežce and the last to the right Debela Peč.
As gently ascending across Pokljuka towards Lipanca the beaten ski trail
froze during the night, so it was easy to advance. The weather remained mostly
clear however some smaller stratus clouds were created. They covered the sun
for a short time, but when arriving to Lipanca it was sunny again and the
clouds started to fall apart. Trees got snowy not before arriving to Lipanca.
If on the plateau it was cold in the morning, on the slopes the sun warmed the
air even though it remained below freezing.
When arriving on Lipanca we first reach a small and short valley below
and the meadow is on gentles slopes at its end. The trees are slowly turning
white and the white paradise uncovers in the distance. The clouds change, move
away from the sun and start to fall apart. It is sunny again.
Arriving on Lipanca to the Alpine hut, the true winter fairytale begins.
In the morning the blue sky is enriched with clouds falling apart as quickly as
they were created. Towards Mrežce there were many visitors a day before,
towards other peak no one yet. Probably visitors will visited other peaks when
snow conditions and avalanche risk stabilized. There was some breeze up there
but not enough to blow the snow away from the canopies.
And know we step into the paradise among snowy larches. First we climb
the eastern slopes of Mrežce before reaching the southern ridge. On those
slopes there is some shade during short days of winter and in the afternoon the
sun hides behind the slope. Clouds falling apart still enrich the blue sky at
the beginning.
As we climb on, there is more sun higher up and long shades appear because
of trees across the slope during the day. The scarce forest is full of snowy
larches and some lone spruces are also present.
Larches rise into height in the scarce forest and the snow covers its
golden branches. Above the trees is now blue clear winter sky.
A fairy image of undulating steep
slope from an angle. In the back to the right the peaks of Mrežce and Lipanski
vrh are visible. Only some weak stains remained off clouds on the sky at the
far right side of the horizon.
Now let us move on through those wonderful white larch forests across
the rolling floor of steep slope. The forest is still united but scarce as larch
forest usually is.
As we rise above eastern slopes towards the southern ridge, the slopes
get gentler and not rolling anymore. The slope has many ski trail since many
skier already visited Mrežce. Skiers follow single trail while climbing and ski
freely on the way down. We arrive into mosaic of open spaces and smaller
formations of snowy larches that grow shorter as we climb higher. The blue sky
is still enriched by some pale remains of cloud formation that disappear the
same moment they condense in the sky. This occurs when the air dries and the
wind causes some friction in the air. The friction causes cloud formation but
at the same time the wind also dries the air and clouds disappear quickly. The
air that day was typical cold winter like with temperatures between -5 and
-10°C on top of the mountain with no severe cold.
Wonderful scene appears when looking across the slope from an angle.
There are still some higher larches art the edge of united forest. In the back
to the right we can see Stol mountain among them.
A bit taller trees grow now in
typical small size, we are now above forest line. There is plenty ski trails
everywhere since skiers ski down the slope freeride way. The last lone cloud
remains of most pale appearance are disappearing now.
A fantastic view down the slope uncovers the snowy larch forest below.
Beneath it is snowy Pokljuka and behind the plateau Ljubljana basin without
snow cover. At the time of last precipitation there was only rain in the basin
and the little snow cover there was that winter disappeared. A the eastern edge
of the horizon stratus clouds are disappearing far away in the distance. The
ones that were formed above Pokljuka fell apart. Above hills in the distance
and around Kamnik-Savinja Alps some cumulus clouds formed.
Now we finnaly arrive on the southern ridge of Mrežce. It is still a
gentle slope rising towards the peak. There are now many wonderful snowy scenes
with white spruces and larches combined with now completely blue clear sky
above.
Now we follow the gentle slopes of southern ridge towards the peak. We
may cross some smaller formations of dwarf trees. They are mostly larches with
some lone spruces among. There is a wide ski trail in the middle and freeride
traces around. Some visitors with snowshoes also went there already.
Behind the southern ridge beautiful view across the mountains above
Pokljuka to the west starts to open and high mountains to the north with tall
walls above Krma valley below also start to open. Triglav also appears on the
horizon. In combination with some lone little trees of both spruces and larches
we come across really fantastic scenes. The air is now completely dry with no
clouds and the sky is clear blue. Triglav is on far right of this photo.
On the snowy slope covered in whiteness the ski trail becomes narrower.
Closer to the peak it separates into two so each of them is narrower though.
Now in front of us is the prepeak of Mrežce. It looks like we reach the top
there but the main peak is hidden behind it. On this side of the horizon the
sky is also now completely clear blue.
The prepeak of Mrežce is a dome enriched with dwarf trees scattered
around. On this spot there are more spruces than larches. Trees are covered in
pure whiteness with some rime ice addition as well due to some fog in past
days.
A fantastic panorama awaits us if we look across the southern ridge down
the slope. In front of us is a bit rolling slope again with Lower Bohinj Ridge
in the background. A view can be open but the scvene is even more beautiful
being enriched with little spruce in front.
There are many other fantastic scenes of the surroundings across the
slopes with Triglav and other mountains behind. The scene is most special when
we catch Triglav between little spruces like ion the first photo.
Now we can see the main peak of Mrežce as we cross the prepeak. The main
peak is mostly bleak except very few dwarf spruces. There was breeze again on
the top. Due to stronger wind on the top before the ski trail is not so clear.
Before arriving to the top a view opens on the end of Lipanca meadow and
surrounding slopes with scarce forest. Through this forest follows the route
toward Lipanski vrh and also further on to Brda and Debela peč. That is also a
pretty safe terrain for avalanches, but in the middle in the forest is a short
steep slope where the route goes. This short section can be risky right after
snowfall so no one had yet gone in this direction before the conditions settle
down and only Mrežce were visited. The
panorama is enriched with Stol in the back and contrast is made by Ljubljana
basin beneath with no snow cover.
A magnificent sunny dome of the prepeak with some dwarf larches around. Those
scenes give you a feeling of having wings for a moment. In the background there
are some clouds above Lower Bohinj ridge and further on in the distance of
horizon some cirrus clouds.
Now we finally arrive on top of Mrežce. The short climb from Lipanca may
last an hour if we go slower or only half an hour if we go faster. However
there are so many rich and various scenes during the climb that it appears as
we explored the snowy land for most of the day. The gentle top breaks to the
north into deep wall above Krma valley. In the winter it is not safe to step to
close to the edge because snowdrifts at the edge may break at any time fall
down into the depths. The snow on the top is hardened and trodden from all
visitors. So we can make some break and enjoy the fantastic view. When wind is
very gentle, the sun gently warms us being in the fresh, clear and cold winter
air.
Lipanski vrh is like many peaks above Pokljuka dome-liked and is only a
few meters away. But inbetweeen is a gap where the ground just disappears. The
ridge is broken by around 20 meters deep gap. The protected climbing section
that is just an easy short section in the summer but now it is completely
covered with snow. If we do not know where it is we cannot even imagine it. It
is very dangerous to be there after snowfall even with right equipment and
experience since the avalanche could trigger at any time and we would fall into
the depths of the valley. Even when the conditions stabilize only alpinist may
cross it.
A fantastic view on the rocky walls of Rjavina above Krma valley with
Triglav behind. The walls are partly covered by edge of Mrežce as it is not
safe to step to close to the edge. However even scene like that are beautiful
on its own way.
An idyllic view across the mountain ridge above Pokljuka to the west. On
the first photo is the end of Krma valley behind it (the bottom of the valley
is hidden below) and Triglav above. On the second photo the Pokljuka ridge is
in the center with Viševnik and both Draški vrh peaks in the distance. In front
of them is gentle Debeli vrh, the first peak opposite to Mrežce.
After a relaxing break and view enjoyment let us return back to Pokljuka.
We start descending from Mrežce on the parallel route on the opposite side of
the southern ridge to find some new scenes. There will be many special ones of
course. As descending the top looks wider from this direction like on the first
photo. And we can see a fantastic scene of the prepeak from the side covered in
pure whiteness with contrast background on the second photo.
We cannot help but constantly looking back to the top as well us we want
to capture scenes from both directions. Omn
this photo are lone dwarf larches opposite to prepeak. There are also some
skitrails on this route and behind is the trace of my snowshoes.
Some lone dwarf trees again enrich the mountain panorama behind, where Triglav
and Rjavina rise.
From this route the view on dome-like prepeak (first photo) is truly
wonderful as well as on the rolling terrain below (second photo). Contrasts from
an angle towards the sun are now different and the lone dwarf trees beautifully
enrich the snowy rolling hills. Spruces and larches are mixed together among
those trees and in the distance on the edge of the horizon are some cirrus
clouds.
As we descend we come among a bit taller but still small trees scattered
across the whiteness of the slopes. Most of the trees are larches now.
As little larches on the edge of the slopes grow a bit taller and the
panorama behind opens fully, the scenes become even more fantastic. At this scene
behind the larch Debeli vrh is hidden and Triglav rises right to it. Both
Draški vrh mountains are left to the larch. The mountains in front and behind
do not yet seem united since a line of the edge of the wall above Krma is still
visible below Triglav.
After crossing the first scattered formation of little larches there is
another open space with a hole below trees. The trees nicely overgrow the
dome-liked slope.
Soon the trees on the edge of the slope grow taller again and start
forming scattered forest. The mountains behind now hide behind them. Spruces
and larches mix together now. On the first photo both Draški vrh peaks can be
seen among them. at other spots there are mostly larches and mountains may open
a bit more again like on the second photo.
New fantastic scenes of the slope edge where trees are covered in pure
whiteness and the mountains behind are hidden. The snow is sparkling in the
sunlight. Trees now grow the height of “teenagers” and they form long shades
from the side.
One of the most beautiful scenes among the trees of the day and the
winter. The neighbors spruce and larch grow like twin brother and sister next
to each other. Some more larches grow behind them. the sky above is the true deep
blue and clear of the winter and the trees in front of them form long shades
towards them.
Later on we return to the mosaic of open spaces and smaller forest
formation of “teenage” larches now growing tall but not yet the adult height. There
are some ski trails as well o this part of the slope, but less then on the
route we climb upwards. Those are the trails of skiers skiing down the slope. The
snowy slopes are mostly sunny however there are some long shades behind the
trees.
At this spot the slope looks very gentle from this direction, more then
it looked while ascending upwards. Behind the edge of the slope an adult united
larch forest grow. Soon we will return inside it.
Now we return on the same route we climbed upwards. This is the last
view up o the mosaic across the last open space before returning to the forest.
Here many ski trails come closer together.
After that we descend into the scarce larch forest among adult trees. The
light is beautifully sparkling if we turn towards the sun.
On the forest slope there are still some smaller gaps where the view on
the opposite slopes of Lipanca towards Brda opens.
On the rolling terrain we may catch such scenes of smaller spruces among
adult larches on the open forest spaces.
The last view on Lipanca little basin before returning to the alpine
hut. Down there some larches have already lost the snow on the branches.
Now some final views on the amphitheatre above Lipanca with blue cleart
sky above. There are no clouds on the sky now. On those photos there is a short
steep slope in the back that we have to cross to reach peaks in this direction (Lipanski
vrh, Brda and Debela peč). That is the main reason why nobody yet went there
after the heavy snowfall due to possibility of avalanche risk. The rough terrain
is grown by mixed forest of larches and spruces.
The most beautiful amphitheatre above Lipanca is that of Mrežce abd
Lipanski vrjh above the alpine hut. Those peaks are to the left of the photos. To
the right the peak is called Kredarica. So Kredarica is not only next to
Triglav where the highest alpine hut in Slovenia is located but there are more
peaks of that name in Slovenian Alps.
And for the end the view from Lipanca on Pokljuka squeezed in between
two slopes. In the middle of Pokljuka we can see the Zajavornik meadow from
there. Among many ski trails it is time to descend back into Pokljuka forest
and leave the endless winter fairytale above Lipanca.
I give another thanks to snow fairy to allow me to experience her land
in Julian Alps as well in another fantasy!
Till next time, Aljaž
