The nature of Šmohor hills: The chosen sights: Episode I - The hills

Hello,

Between Kranj and Škofja Loka there is a straight main road leading from one town to another. It goes through a connected line of settlements ad the edge of Sora fields. The drive through is very contrast. There is a vast plain of Sora fields to the east and the hilly terrain of Šmohor hills to the west. From Kranj to south and west there is thus very rich and various land. There are many different environments being home to many forms of life.  Let us focus on some chosen spots and sights of many. We will visit the Šmohor hills, some sunny spots of Sora fields and two interesting water pools on neighbor regions in Ljubljana basin:  Hraše pools on Kranj fields and Bobovek ponds at the beginning of Dobrave. The photos were mostly recorded during exploration in spring and at the end of summer of 2018. That was a long, sunny and hot summer with enough showers, so I concentrated on sunny and wet environments. Let us begin in the hills.

Šmohor hills are very various hills with many different environments. A very various geology with many different rocks units surely has an important contribution to it. This NE part of Škofja Loka hills is geologically its most various part. Additionally Škofja hills are geologically most various hills among western and central hills of Slovenia. There carbonate rocks with limestone and dolomite dominate with some Paleozoic sandstone and clay on lower altitudes. The valleys are covered by quaternary river deposits. In Škofja Loka hills, the most various region, limestone is present only on highest peaks. Elsewhere narrow layers of dolomite mix with wide layers of Paleozoik clay and sandstone. In Šmohor hills the geology is even more various. There is very few limestone (like on Šmarjetna gora) and some dolomite on the top of the ridge from Jošt to Špičasti hrib and on Križna gora. Elsewhere on eastern and southern part of the region dominate mostly Paleozoic and partly Triassic clay and sandstone. On the western part of the hills from Špičasti hrib to Mohor there the volcanic rocks dominate. Among them is keratophyre. This is one of the rare locations of this rock in Slovenia.

The climate of Šmohor hills is temperate. The average annual temperature is between 7 and 9°C, average January temperature between -1 and -3°C and average July temperature between 16 and 19°C. The temperature mostly depends on altitude. The area has enough precipitation, annually between 1500 and 1900 mm. in this case the amount of precipitation increases from east (Kranj) to west (the edge of Jelovica) rather that with altitude. The precipitation regime is submediterranean, so the peak of precipitation is in autumn and the second peak being the summer. The least amount of precipitation is in winter. The area annually receives around 2000 hours of sunshine. The lowest amount is at the eastern edge of the hills next to Sora fields due to common fog occurrence in autumn, winter and spring in the morning. In the winter snow-covered and snowless periods exchange there. Winters with deep snow cover for most of winter and almost snowless winters are also common. In average there is among 60 and 90 days of snow cover in winter. This depends mostly on altitude and terrain position (sunny side, shady side, peaks).

The main vegetation of Šmohor hills is forest. The most common are mostly broadleaf beech forests and also fir-beech mixed forests on Mohor. Since spruce was introduced in the past, the forest is now mixed in many parts of the area. There are many villages around, especially on sunny sides of the slopes and in the valleys. There are many meadows and pastures as well, most of them is in valleys and on sunny slopes. Some smaller fields are also hidden in the valleys and on gentle slopes, but are very scarce. In the forest there are some clearings as well, the largest clearing area is on Hrastnik hill opposite to Planica. On the eastern foothills and at some parts on the top of the main ridge, pine forests are also present. The valleys are rich with many water streams. The Šmohor hills have a very dense amount of water streams as most of Slovenia. The steams flow into rivers Sava and Sora. Sora later on flows into Sava.

This vegetation results in many different environments being formed on the variegated terrain. Let us make a trip through many interesting environments and catch some scenes of life there. First we will visit the hills in the peak of spring at the end of April and at the start of May. for the end we eill conclude the trip with some scenes from mid September.

We start in Pševo. Near the village there is one of the most beautiful beech forests, full of greenery. In some parts there are some spruces among, but mostly there are almost pure broadleaf forests.

As we begin, we encounter on Salomon´s seal (Polygonatum). This interesting plat is most recognizable by oval to spear-shaped leafs compound and nearly opposite leaves and bell-shaped pending little flowers, often in pairs or triplets. The fruit are dark blue berries.  The plant is venomous and flowers usually from May to June. This season the summer started very rapidly at the end of April after snowy winter and the plant bloomed sooner.

On forest edges anemones are common. The most known in Slovenia is European wood anemone (Anemone nemorosa). This time we encounter on three leaved anemone instead (Anemone trifolia). Anemones bloom at the end of March or after snow melts. The main flowering season is in April, when trees are yet to burst in leaf or leaves are nor mature yet and let more sunlight through to the forest floor. They stop flowering in May. Three leaved anemone has white flowers with 6 or more petals. It was named after leaves compounded of three leaflets.

From forest near Pševo we arrive on the meadows between Pševo and Javornik villages. At the end of April the meadows are full of dandelions and buttercups. However, they do not bloom alone. The meadows are enriched with orchards or single fruit trees.

The Tropinota hirta beetle landed on dandelion flower. It is recognized by dense hair and light spots on the forewings.

Even more interesting than the beetle is this small green grasshopper with very long antennae that landed on the buttercup. The Orthopthera insect order is very difficult to define species of grasshoppers and crickets and they occur in many nymph stages beside adults. That is why I usually do not try to define the species I do not know.  The only thing I can tell is that it goes for a species of Tettigoniidae family of Ensifera order once known as long-horned grasshoppers due to long antennae. Other grasshoppers have short antennae and belong to Caelifera suborder.

Let us continue to Javornik in the middle of yellowed meadows. However the biggest surprise does not appear on the meadow in front of us neither in the orchard next to it. It appears in the village on the edge of meadows just by the road. The meadow in front of us is pasture in the summer.

An orchid surprises us in the village. Those distinctive flowers are usually unmanured and extensive meadows so it is quite surprising to spot it in the village. They usually bloom in May and June before the first harvest. Orchids are protected in Slovenia and belong to monocots group of plants.

After Javornik let us head on the top of the ridge. First we cross some clearings and young forest formed on former clearing. This sunny part of the ridge is inhabited by spruces and birches besides beeches. After the clearings the pine forest section on the top of the ridge begins. There are pine forests on the sunny side and beech forests on the top and shady side of the ridge. The peak in this section is called Bladovica.

Below the top of the ridge and Bladovica above Čepulje there is another short ridge in front. In between is a small valley with another meadow. Behind to the west there is the next peak, Gladki hrib (on the first photo). On Gladki hrib, beech forest dominates again. The terrain is steep and dolomite rocks are clearly expressed. I spot chamois often there. I named the valley in front us snow valley. With 700 do 730 meters of altitude and partly shady side on the bottom this is one of the spots in the hills, where snow remains the longest. Besides that the deepest amount of snow is accumulated in that valley. Since the terrain on the bottom is gentle the snow is not washed as much as on slopes in case of rain. Above the bottom the opposite sunny side begins immediately. There many plants which prefer sunny conditions thrive. On the second photo is the path that leads from the valley to the top of the ridge.

The violets (Viola) already stopped flowering on many sunny slopes. In the snow valley, they still persist. However they are already pale, because the snow valley quickly becomes the sunny valley in spring, when since rises higher above horizon. So their flowering time is running out. So even though in winter and the beginning of spring snow stays the longest there, later in spring violets will rather persevere in more shady locations.

On the sunny foothill many globe daisies (Globularia) grow. They have blue violet inflorescence capitula with many dwarf flowers. With up to 1 meter deep roots and specialized leaves it is well adopted to sunny and dry habitats. In denser vegetation other species quickly dominate over them since globe daisies are weak competitors. 

Spurges (Euphorbia) are also common on sunny and dry habitats. They are known to form a whit liquid leaking out of damaged spots and it is best visible if we cut the stem. It is a poisonous liquid. Spurges often have distinctive pale green to yellow flowers. In subtropic and tropic regions they often resemble cacti since they have similar characteristics as dry habitat adaptations. Many of those species are grow in Africa.

The forest on the top of Bladovica is mostly beech forest. Below on sunny side of the hill pine forest dominates. This forests still mixed, not purely pine. Some pines also grow among beeches on the top. The beech forest on the top of the ridge is much shadier that pine forest below.

In the play of shade and some sunrays on the top of the ridge another spring plant awakes. That is Lilly of the valley (Convallaria majalis). It is poisonous and contains glycosides. In smaller doses it helps older people with weekend hearth. However since it is poison the dose can quickly be to severe and it can cause cardiac arrest. Those young plants do not yet bloom, but they will start blooming soon. They do so in May and June. They bloom as raceme with bell-shaped flowers. The fruit are sparkling red berries.

On the sunny spots among the bush and rocks we can often spot common or European wall lizard (Podarcis muralis). We can often hear some movement on the way or catch a glimpse of it. If we are lucky we can get closer to it and encounter some beautiful sights of that lizard. It is one of the most numerous and common lizards in Slovenia and most often spotted. It is also common in settlements on rocks and walls.

Later on we move to the beginning of May. We continue our way to one of the most beautiful villages in Slovenia, Planica (the first photo). The village center is located on the eastern slopes of the hill. Around there is some forest and many meadows and orchards. Only 100 to 200 meters of difference in altitude from Pševo and Javornik already results in later maturity of grass and it also grows a bit shorter. The meadows are drier at some spots and poorer with nutrients. It results in lesser amount of individual plants and flowers but more interesting features.

Some orchids are again present on those meadows as well. The first one we encounter on is similar to the one from Javornik. It has beautiful purple flowers. The stem gains red coloration on its top. Due to their reputation orchids always make the day more beautiful when we encounter on them.

There are more beautiful plants on those meadows like this crane´s bill (Geranium). There are many different species of those plants and we can often spot them. Most common are those with red or purple flowers like this one or with blue violet flowers. The one above is most likely bloody crane´s bill (G. sanguineum). Its rhizome contains tannins which were used to stop bleedings in the past.

I often explore another beautiful meadow to the south from the the village where the path leads on the top of the ridge to Križna gora. The meadow is very variegated with a small orchard on it. On this meadow I usually spot the most interesting sights. From the meadow is a very beautiful view on Škofja Loka hills from Lubnik to Stari vrh (the second photo from afternoon).  The Selška Sora valley is hidden below.

In spring some of the most distinctive flowers in forests and meadows are also peavines (Lathyrus). Most commonly they have red or blue violet flowers, some of them also yellow. On this photo is most likely everlasting pea (L. vernus) or spring pea (L. linifolius). The first one prefers limestone surface and the second one nonlimestone surface. Peavines have fruits in legume like beans since they belong to the same Fabaceae family.

Some other wonderful orchids have found their place on those meadows as well. This time we encounter on one with purple flowers.

A yellowhammer found its spot in the orchard there. This is one of the most distinctive birds of open habitats in Slovenia. The male on the photo has golden yellow head and partly belly whereas females are of more pale colors. Yellowhammer is present in the breeding range year-round or migrates on short distances. They often ding from the top of canopies. They breed in spring and summer. They feed on insects in summer and on fruit and seeds in winter.

On the flowers we can also spot insects while mating. This time we encounter on two beetles. This group of insects is so various and has so many species that is often very difficult to define some of them. This time I did not even try but what was important to me was to catch the mating moment.

The neighbor of Planica is Lavtarski vrh, where a small village by the same name lies. On the western side of the peak, from where the second photo was shot, grows forest and on the eastern side are meadows, some small orchards and the village. Planica is on the second photo behind to the right. The first photo was shot later in the afternoon when there were more clouds in the sky. Lavtarski vrh continues to Hrastnik opposite to Planica and Križna gora. We will head to that hill now. Hrastnik has many clearings in the forest.

The clearings on the top of Hrastnik grew much larger recently. Some of them are new (the second photo) whereas the others are already overgrowing (the first photo). That is why on Hrastnik there are many different phases of forest succession and thus there are many different sunny habitats. That is why we can spot many different species on Hrastnik today. There both sunny and shady species present.  A very interesting environment was created with human impact.

The top of Hrastnik is on bare sunlight of the clearing on the sunny side. In the summer later on a lot of dense vegetation, especially ferns will grow. Thus there are also many ticks. On the shady side forest reaches the top of the hill. On the western side of the hill a large clearing was created in last few years as well …

… And there is beautiful view on the Selška Sora valley opens. We can see a very flat and cultivated land in the valley formed on river deposits. Stari vrh (first photo to the left) and ratitovec (second photo in the middle) rise above the valley behind. Above mountains behind clouds are formed the soonest during the day.

Many common tiger beetles (Cicindela) often run around the sunny spots of the clearing. They can be pretty numerous in spots. It is very difficult to get closer to them since they instantly run forward. I did manage to take this beautiful scene of a mating couple anyway. 

Some predatory spiders also found home on Hrastnik.  Among them is this Pisaura spider. They are very distinctive in many habitats of Slovenia and resemble wolf spiders. They do not create webs to catch prey but hunt on the ground or water surface.

Some dragonflies also fly around Hrastnik. Even though those insects are common close to waters, where their larva develop, they chase insects on many sunny spots and may fly far away from waters. This time we encounter on the female of skimmer (Orthetrum). If males are recognizable by a distinctive sparkling azure blue color of the abdomen, females have a yellow brown abdomen with dark lines.

Mighty european hornets fly around the sunny habitats of Hrastnik. the photo of the largest wasp of Slovenia from close creates a big respect to those insects.

For the end let us head to another beautiful village of the hills – Križna gora. Open and wast colorful meadows surround us and the grass murmurs in the wind of spring in May. On the sky many clouds of various shapes are formed during the day. Around colorful meadows the scenery is enriched by beautiful views on Ljubljana basin below, Alps behind and Škofja Loka hills around.

At the end of the meadows of Križna gora there is a church (first photo) and hunting lodge. In the lodge they offer drinks during weekends and if we want something to eat there is a restaurant in the village. From the village to the church the road leads through rolling hills with colorful meadows.

The church is also surrounded by colorful meadows on rolling hills. The meadows are enriched by a tree group in the middle. In the sky are thousands of various spring clouds on sunny blue sky in midday. Umbellifers give some whiteness to the meadows.

For the end of the spring exploration there are two wonderful photos from Lavtarski vrh. The first one is a view through narrow valley Sredniška grapa between Križna gora and Hrastnik toward the Selška Sora valley with Lubnik behind. On the second photo there is a full greenery of meadows and the forest of dome-like Planica.

We will add a short September exploration of the hills to the spring one. Mid September is the end of summer or the start of season change. The dark green summer colors become more tranquil and the first other colors start to appear even though they are still very rare, scarce and hidden.

In the forest, like in the beautiful beech forest near Pševo there is still the true summer shade and darkness. The contrasts are much different, darker in summer than in spring ...

... However a view in the canopies shows that there is still mature full greenery around.

The meadows and orchards around Pševo express a very different face than in spring. They are enveloped in mature dark greenery of late summer coming to an end. In the morning there is a clear blue sky. The grass is much different than in spring or June before the first harvest. That is already a third generation after the second harvest that will not grow very tall.

Pševo village is sunning in the late summer mature green scenery. The grass on steep slope in front has just been harvested in mid September, the second time of the season. The harvest on this meadow was made a bit later than most other meadows. On the second photo is the bush greenery that matures in spring at Pševo quarry. In those sunny bushes below the rocks we can spot many insects and reptiles in the summer.

Similar mature green also envelop the meadows below the quarry. The grass has been just recently harvested there as well, but few days sooner that on the steep slope from where the view on Pševo is. First cirrus clouds formed in the sky as visible on the first photo. On the second photo a maple is now full of mature leaves and winged fruit just developed by whom the maple is known.

Meadows around Javornik were harvested a few days later than those around Pševo. The grass turned green there again as well, so it was more than just a few days before. On the sky there are no cumulus clouds yet, the cirrus that formed before was created much higher in the atmosphere. From the distance no autumn colors are visible yet, only the mature green color of late spring …

… However the first signs of autumn coming close show on the lower meadow with one of the fruit trees turning leaves into scarlet red color. It is still a very lone individual where carotenoid pigments dominate over chlorophyll. Soon in the next weeks other fruit trees will join it and in around a month the forest trees as well. On the first photo we can see how contrasts are much darker now than in spring if we look towards the sky.

Life in September also gives us some interesting sights. Among the greenery we spot two individuals of minstrel bug (Graphosoma lineatum) on a leaf this time. That is a very common Heteroptera species in Slovenia belonging to Pentatomidae family. They feed mostly on umbellifer plants.

On the meadows we can also spot a much known plant flowering in late spring and autumn. That is an autumn crocus (Colchicum autumnale). Its name already tells when it blooms. Its flowers are like larger version of spring crocus but they belong to a different genus and order. It is poisonous. A colchicine is poison that causes cramps in muscles and even muscle paralysis. That can result even in death.

The time comes to finish our exploration of the hills. Let us conclude it on Jošt in mid September. Even in the upper part of the hills the forests are still enveloped in dark shades of late summer like by the road that leads to the top on the first photo or by the path down towards the quarry on the second photo. The sunny spots are now the smallest in the forest. There are not yet any fallen leaves on the ground which means the autumn is yet to start in the forest. However the beech nuts have already matured.

On the top of Jošt the grass has just been harvested. It is visible that it was harvested the last there since it matures the last there. The brown colors on the meadow are parts where there were still bushes or forest edge a few years ago but were cut down later. Now that is a sunny meadow habitat which is still poorer with nutrients than the surroundings since the grass has just started to develop. The soil is different as well so there we can find many different grasshoppers in the summer.  On the top of Jošt the church and a mighty tree beside sparkle in sunlight.

For the end there is a peaceful view across the meadows towards Planica with some clouds in the back and the view across young spruces and beeches on Kamnik-Savinja Alps behind on the second photo. Above the Alps some clouds formed as well during the day. They are still formed in September but they are usually formed later than in the peak summer and storms become less severe.

The nature of šmohor hills is so really various with many different habitats. We have just visited some of them. We will visit one of the other interesting locations in the next episode. That is the valley of Suha stream near Bitnje. It is located on the eastern edge of the hills next to Sora fields.

Till next time, Aljaž